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Turks & Caicos – Report

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Here is a great report from subscriber Craig Dumesnil on his most recent trip to the Turks & Caicos.  He has captured the essence of Provo and North Caicos and I totally agree with his assessment of Bottle Creek and the fishing on Provo itself.  I have also stayed with Barry and Marta who own and operate Harbour Club Villas and can absolutely recommend it, you will not meet better hosts. There has been no further news from the government on opening the restricted areas to catch & release fishing, so I can’t provide any more direction on fishing some of the more popular areas that are clearly within the zones. Here is Craig’s report: This being my fourth wintertime visit to the Turks and Caicos, TCI, I thought I might opine for a moment on what I see as the pluses and minuses in hopes that it might be helpful to anyone contemplating a vacation or wondering how it compares to other destinations. First and foremost, you can count on the weather being delightful regardless of what’s going on back home. Daytime highs in the low 80’s and balmy nights in the low 70’s. Since it’s often breezy in the evenings, having a light sweater and jacket is a must. International air travel from Atlanta, Charlotte, Philly, New York, Toronto and Montreal is non-stop and most flights arrive Providenciales (Provo to the locals) in time for a late lunch. A word about the airport: On your day of return, arrive early and grab a seat. The airport has recently been expanded and modernized, but the throngs of vacationers returning stateside, especially on a Saturday or Sunday can be a little overwhelming. The Turks and Caicos Islands (TCI) were once politically connected to Jamaica but with Jamaican independence, TCI became a British Overseas Territory. An interesting bit of political history is its hundred-year flirtation with Canada. Suffice it to say that the famous Grace Bay beach is one of the prettiest anywhere and is only one of several beautiful beaches surrounding Provo. Sunbathing, snorkeling and scuba are the main activities along with charter fishing and sailing. More recently, Provo has become a popular kite board destination with Long Bay Beach being the center of activity on windy days. Provo is certainly “spouse friendly” and is a popular destination for newlyweds. Accommodations range from hotel rooms and time-shares to lavish, over-the-top 10 bedroom oceanfront vacation rentals. The Amanyara Resort on the West side is particularly lavish and popular with those not on a budget. Dining out options abound. Be sure to pick up one of the free visitors’ guides that advertise many of the local restaurants. We have several favorites in the Turtle Cove Marina area that we return to each year. Truth be told, TCI can be pricey: Virtually everything is shipped in from Miami, 600 miles to the Northeast. On my first visit, several years ago, my only guided bonefish charter ran $800 plus tip and is the main reason I started to DIY fish, and the first bonefish I ever caught DIY was here in Provo.     This February, we flew into Provo but continued on to N. Caicos Island by ferry. The half hour ferry ride crosses shallow, gin-clear water to the Sandy Point marina with several daily trips back and forth. For three nights we rented a private home in the Bottle Creek settlement owned by Scooter Bob of Scooter Bob’s Car Rentals over on Provo. The house is situated directly across from the Bottle Creek flats, several square miles of wadeable bonefish habitat. Bob has kayaks for getting around on the flats and we used them to move from place to place out on the flats. The bottom is mostly firm with a few exceptions and we spent most of our time wading. Walking the lee side of several small islands in the morning, we saw numerous tailing fish and my first day out I hooked up with a career fish in the 12 lb. range. We returned to Provo after 3 nights on N. Caicos and stayed a week at Harbour Club Villas and Marina in the Turtle Tail area of Providenciales away from the hustle and bustle of Grace Bay. This was my third visit to Harbour Club and as usual our accommodations were immaculate and our hosts, Barry and Marta, were most accommodating with the most recent dining and fishing suggestions. Barry told me about a new way to drive out to Bonefish Point, which avoided the bone-jarring, unmaintained road I used to take. Whether you fish or not, Bonefish Point is one of the most scenic coastlines anywhere and is well worth the half hour drive from town. I fished either side of the low and had shots at cruising and tailing fish in the 5-7 lb. range. The bottom is uneven and wave-swept. I found it easiest to wade out to a 12-14 inch depth and just wait for fish to come by in addition to walking the shoreline and watching the water in front of me. Each morning, I waded right out front of the Harbour Club in Flamingo and Turtle Lake. Although I caught my first DIY bonefish in Flamingo several years ago, I spent most of my time kayaking around Turtle Lake where the incoming tide produced many tailing fish in the early morning. In fact, I am already planning a return visit next year to coincide with an early morning incoming tide. All in all, Providenciales is a great winter getaway spot, very “spouse friendly” and a good choice for DIY fishing when you don’t have all day to fish.”   Thanks for the great report Craig.

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